The drive from Los Angeles north along Highway 395 towards Mammoth Lakes is one of the great road trips in all of California. The drive offers breathtaking views of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, the (much older) White Mountains, the vibrantly picturesque Owens Valley, and the Mojave Desert (which, let’s face it, is kinda boring, especially if you’ve done the drive as many times as I have). The highway winds its way through a diverse range of geological and historical features, making it an ideal destination for road trippers, history buffs, and outdoor enthusiasts alike.

One of the highway’s more magnificent sights is observable when making a left turn up Whitney Portal Road in Lone Pine. Just a few miles up, you will find the magnificent Alabama Hills, a range of hills located in the Owens Valley near the main entrance to Mount Whitney. The hills are known for their unique geological formations, including massive rounded boulders and natural arches, and their rich history and cultural significance.

The hills are world famous not just for their scenic beauty and appeal to photographers. They have also appeared in more than 700 movie and television productions, including some of the most famous and iconic Westerns ever made. The first film made there was the silent 1920 western “The Round Up,” starring Roscoe “Fatty” Arbuckle.

More recently, several major films made use of the Alabama Hills as exotic backdrops. In addition to Iron Man (2008), where Tony Stark crash-lands after escaping captivity, and Gladiator (2000), where the rugged landscape serves as part of the journey for Maximus, the Alabama Hills has also appeared in:

The Lone Ranger (2013) – The dramatic landscape contributes to the film’s adventurous, untamed feel.

Django Unchained (2012) – Here, the rocky outcrops stand in for the American West, giving a distinctive backdrop to Quentin Tarantino’s Western.

Tremors (1990) – The Hills’ remote, desolate look is a perfect setting for this cult classic monster movie.

Star Trek V: The Final Frontier (1989) – Alabama Hills doubles as alien terrain in this installment of the sci-fi series.

Other earlier films include:

• “Gunga Din” (1939)
• “Rio Bravo” (1959)
• “How the West Was Won” (1962)
• “The Lone Ranger” (1956-1957 TV series)
• “Gunsmoke” (1955-1975 TV series)
• “The Great Train Robbery” (1903, silent film)

A very nice explanation (with lots of visuals) of the area’s Hollywood past can be seen at the Museum of Western Film History in Lone Pine.

Geologically, the Alabama Hills are primarily made up of biotite monzogranite, an intrusive igneous rock, rather than metamorphic rock. This type of granite was formed from magma that cooled slowly beneath the Earth’s surface, allowing large crystals of quartz, feldspar, and biotite to develop. The landscape, featuring spherical, egg-shaped, teardrop forms, and natural arches, was sculpted over millions of years through a combination of chemical weathering and wind erosion.

One of the most striking aspects of the Alabama Hills is the sharp contrast they present with the neighboring glacially carved ridges of the Sierra Nevada. There are almost 10,000 feet of vertical difference between Mount Whitney’s majestic granite peaks and the rolling boulders of the Alabama Hills. The Sierra’s jagged, ice-carved peaks seem to rise abruptly from the gentle, rounded contours of the hills. Geologically, both landforms consist of the same granitic rock, but they have been shaped by very different forces. While glaciers carved the high peaks of the Sierra Nevada, creating sharp ridges and deep valleys, the Alabama Hills experienced a slower, more gradual transformation. Erosion by wind, rain, and temperature changes slowly sculpted the monzogranite, creating the unique and surreal formations we see today.

While the geological history of the Alabama Hills is well known, its biology is equally fascinating. At first glance, the landscape may seem inhospitable to life, but a closer inspection reveals a surprisingly diverse ecosystem adapted to the harsh conditions. In recent years, new studies have shed light on the resilience and adaptation strategies of plants and animals in this region.

The Alabama Hills are home to a variety of plant species, many of which have evolved to survive in the dry, rocky soil. Sagebrush, saltbush, and other desert plants dominate the landscape, while prickly cacti add a distinct desert charm. One particularly intriguing plant is Atriplex hymenelytra, commonly known as desert holly, which has adapted to the high-salinity soil by developing silvery leaves that reflect sunlight, reducing water loss and protecting the plant from extreme temperatures.

Wildlife, too, has found ways to thrive in this rugged terrain. The Alabama Hills are home to numerous bird species, reptiles, and small mammals. Species like the western fence lizard, desert cottontail, and even mountain lions are part of this surprisingly vibrant ecosystem. Birdwatchers can often spot red-tailed hawks, ravens, and sometimes even golden eagles soaring above the hills, taking advantage of the thermal updrafts created by the warm rock surfaces.

Recent studies have added to our understanding of the Alabama Hills’ unique environment. One particularly interesting research project conducted by ecologists focuses on the role of cryptobiotic soil crusts—thin layers of lichens, mosses, and bacteria that live on the surface of desert soils. These crusts play a critical role in preventing erosion and retaining moisture in arid environments like the Alabama Hills. The study revealed that these soil crusts are more widespread than previously thought, and their destruction by human activity, such as off-road vehicle use, could have significant ecological consequences.

Cryptobiotic crusts act as a protective cover on desert soils, anchoring loose particles and reducing susceptibility to wind and water erosion. When these crusts are damaged, the soil is left vulnerable to erosion, which can lead to large-scale soil loss. This erosion depletes the land of nutrients, reduces soil fertility, and diminishes its ability to support native vegetation.

Additionally, geologists continue to study the impact of erosion and weathering on the Alabama Hills’ distinctive rock formations. Advances in remote sensing technology have allowed scientists to map the region’s geological features in more detail than ever before, providing new insights into how these formations developed and how they are likely to change in the future.

The hills were (controversially) named after the CSS Alabama, a Confederate warship that operated during the American Civil War. The name was given to the hills by a group of Confederate sympathizers who were prospecting in the area in the 1860s. Several groups have launched campaigns to change the name to erase its connection with Southern slavery.

In addition to their geological and historical importance, the Alabama Hills are also important for their recreational opportunities. The hills offer a variety of outdoor activities such as hiking, rock climbing, and photography. The range of hills is also a popular spot for stargazers and astro-photographers, due to the relatively low light pollution in the region.

The Alabama Hills are a must-see destination for anyone interested in geology, history, or outdoor activities in California.